Rome part II: Et tu, gatto?

Continuing from my previous post of my top 10 favorite sights in Rome, here are numbers 6 - 10.

1. Roman Forum/Palantine Hill and the Colosseum
2. The Vatican/St Peter’s Basilica/Sistine Chapel
3. Piazza Navona/St Agnes Church
4. Pantheon
5. Trevi Fountain
6. Baths of Pompey/Largo Argentina/Cat sanctuary
7. Trastevere 
8. Campo dei Fiori
9. Piazza della Repubblica
10. Jewish Quarter

6.  Theater of Pompey/Largo Argentina/Cat sanctuary

Re-enacting the death of Caesar at the exit to the Theater and Baths of Pompey in Largo Argentina

Stray cats roaming Rome's ruins at Largo Argentina

This area is right in the center of Rome, and easily overlooked.  In fact we walked by this area many times before realizing it is significant ruins as oppose to all the other nonsignificant ruins scattered about Rome.  It contains ruins of temples from as old as third century B.C. as well as ruins from Theater and Baths of Pompey, where Caesar was assassinated (et tu Bruté?)  Part of the area has also been turned into a cat sanctuary, and you can see many gattos napping on the ruins.  You aren't actually able to walk amongst the ruins, but it is a fun side stop if you are near the area.

7.  Trastevere

Ladies on the streets of Trastevere.

Trastevere is the charming and "local" district across the river from the main part of Rome (literally means "across the Tevere," the Italian word for Tiber).  In fact, the Romans we met live in this area.  You can find small cobblestone streets filled with Romans gossipping outside, laundry and/or Italian flags hanging out of the windows of apartments, and nuns eating ice cream.

Trastevere has a less "touristy" feel than the right side of the bank, but of course there are still crappy tourist restaurants around.  If you go away from the main square (Santa Maria), you can find really great trattorias.  Our waiter even gave us free drinks from his home town in southern Italy, although that might've been because we had charming a Roman girl with us.

8.  Campo dei Fiori

This piazza is worth a visit either in the afternoon where you can buy spices, flowers, vegetables, drinks, etc., or in the night time where it is full of tourists and locals (usually looking for tourists to hang out with).  It is quite lively at either time, but I would avoid eating in the restaurants here.  Prices are expensive and food is mediocre.  They wouldn't even give us tap water!

9.  Piazza della Repubblica

This piazza is in the far north-east area of Rome.  Unlike the other piazzas in Rome, this is a roundabout for cars.  In the center of the traffic circle is the Fontain of Naiads (water nymphs), designed by Rutelli in 1901 with nymphs on different animals to represent the different bodies of water -- horse for ocean, swan for lakes, monster for rivers, and dragon for underground water.  

On one side of the roundabout is the Basilica of St. Mary (Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri).  It looks like a dilapidated building from the outside, but the inside is well maintained, beautiful, and almost luxurious, common to the Italian renaissance style (definitely not what you expect from looking at the facade).  There is also a tribute to Galileo inside.

10.  Jewish Quarter

Just south of Campo dei Fiori is known as the Jewish Quarter.  The best part about this area is the food!  We stopped at Nonna Betta (Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 16), which was delicious, Kosher, and vegetarian friendly.  It was mentioned in a NYTimes article and by Anthony Bourdain for its artichokes (delicious!).

Since I am talking about food, I wanted to mention another restaurant in Rome that I enjoyed: Antica Birreria Peroni (Via S. Marcello 19).  It is a very fun atmosphere with many people eating and drinking together.  This is where Peroni was originally brewed by monks!  Their specialty is the Kilometer, a delicious grilled sausage served with veggie sides.  And they make a spectacle if you order it: everyone cheers for you!  So only get this if you like being embarrassed... or if you want to embarrass someone!